Animal cruelty arguments aside, Britain now claims to have found the most ethical meat they could possibly hope for. It's completely local, both found and produced in the country and it's relatively lean and therefore has a low fat content. This newest delicacy? The grey squirrel.

It's only been a few months since local butchers began carrying the new meat, but since its debut, has been flying off store shelves as fast as retailers can stock it. David Ridley, owner of Ridley's Fish and Game in Northumberland says:

"I wasn't sure at first, and wondered would people really eat it. Now I take every squirrel I can get my hands on. I've had days when I have managed to get 60 and they've all sold straight away."

"It's moist and sweet because, basically, its diet has been berries and nuts," he said.

Those who have feasted on grey squirrel compare its meat to animals such as wild boar, duck and lamb. So far the meat is a novelty, but with an estimated population of five million grey squirrels in the country, it's a trend that could catch one. Consumers are attracted to the low price, the health factors and the low environmental impact of the meat. Kevin Viner, the brains behind some of the most popular restaurants in the country figures this is just the beginning of what will become a big trend.

Viner - who comes from a rural 'if you shot it, you ate it' background - said the trick was to serve squirrel fresh and not to leave it hanging like other game. "It looks a lot like rabbit, though it is a drier meat and slightly firmer. Most of the meat comes off the rear leg. The loins are so thin they need much shorter cooking time," he said.

"A large squirrel would be enough for one-and-a-half people. The public really are being drawn to it. I think that it's because it is being perceived as a healthy meat. Southern fried squirrel is good. And tandoori style works. It is especially tasty fricasséed with Cornish cream and walnuts. But the one everyone seems to like is the Cornish squirrel pasty."

And his own favourite recipe? "I must admit, I'm a beef man myself," he said. "But my huntsman swears by squirrel with sausage meat and bacon."

And you thought the idea of roasted guinea pig seemed unusual? Though in all fairness, guinea pigs are common household pets in North America, whereas squirrels are shot on farms as target practice. Cruel or brilliant new source of healthy, local meat? You tell us.

» Guardian